Every High Street in London boasts an Indian restaurant. They are as much a part of the scenery as Marks and Spencer, Dixon's or the Sock Shop. Indian is far and way England's most popular cuisine. Is there an adult in this country that does not know that a Naan is leavened puffy flat bread, or that bhindi is lady's fingers, or that sag is spinach?

In only 50 years, the Indian has become an institution to rival the pub. In fact, according to the figures, the Chicken Tikka Masala has become Britain's national dish. Twenty-three million portions of CTM, as it is called in the trade, are sold in restaurants every year. Ironically, this is a dish that is unknown in India or Pakistan Ð it was developed for British tastes. When London's Evening Standard newspaper sent a batch of frozen CTM to New Delhi for tasting by Indian food writers and gourmets, it was pronounced dreadful by every man jack of them!

In recent years, the Indian restaurant in London has grown and evolved. It has moved on from the dark red carpet, cheap gold chairs and flock wallpaper that used to be its defining characteristics. Now, the Indian is far more fashionably decorated (they number some of London's most beautiful restaurants) and certainly more fashionably patronised.

Even more importantly, the food has also moved on. These days, Indian food is frequently as good as anywhere in the city. In the west of London, in Southall for example, there are restaurants that are so exceptional that gourmets fly from India to eat at them. In the East End, around Brick Lane, there are Bangladeshi restaurants that produce some of the finest food to ever come out of the Jewel of Asia. Restaurants serving Modern Indian cuisine have taken the foodie world by storm. In fact, earlier this year, two of London's Indian restaurants were awarded coveted Michelin stars for the first time ever Ð quite a departure for the Michelin Guide, that bastion of old-fashioned French cuisine.

And it's not just the English who are queuing for curries. Visitors to London quite rightly see the capital as the cradle of Indian food and are taking the opportunity to explore the glorious flavours, the wonderful spices and the different breads. Figures at well-known London Indian restaurants show that Americans, in particular, are enthusiastically experimenting with kormas (that's mild, for strangers to the curry) and vindaloos (that's take-the-roof-off hot).

Great Indian restaurants don't just flourish in small pockets. In every corner of the capital there is a decent Indian lurking nearby. And no matter to what class, race or gender a Londoner belongs, the Indian and its takeaway arm are part of his or her way of life. If you need final proof, there is now a fast food Indian outlet at Heathrow Airport, to send Londoners off with fond memories (and to welcome them back). It's speciality? Chicken Tikka Masala burgers.